Vintage Jewelry Unleashed ~ Vol.17 ~ August 2007

Table of Contents:
New Items | Jewelry Tips

New Items at Vintage Jewelry Online.com

This mid-month's collection is an eclectic composite of French necklaces, sterling Napier, a wonderful sterling pair of deer, a modern pair of sterling Mark Davis earrings and of course I had to slip in another fabulous piece of bakelite... a massive black clamper with brilliant rhinestones. And don't forget to check out the great Art Nouveau painted enamel butterfly pin. Add this to the early August update and you have almost 30 new items to browse through. I promise more for September.

The Jewelry Tips section continues exploring the commonly defined jewelry eras with Part 7 1935-1950 covering Costume jewelry.

Here are this months featured items. I hope you enjoy looking at them. For a full view of all new items I've listed in the past 30 days, click here.

The new-featured highlights are found on the home page and include:

• Magnificent Painted Enamel Art Nouveau Butterfly Sash Pin #AO-00065
• Spectacular Carved Black Wide Clamp Rhinestone Bracelet #CB-00471
• Fabulous Pair of Mark Davis Sterling Moderne Earrings #CS-00255
• Sophisticated French 9-Strand 2-Color Glass Necklace #CS-00564
• Heavenly Molded Pastel French Bubble Glass Necklace #CU-00220

Jewelry Tips

Jewelry Eras and the History Behind Them Part 7 Costume Jewelry 1935-1950

Since last September I've been providing an overview of the most commonly referenced jewelry eras beginning with the Georgian period. This month we'll follow the timeline and cover the years, 1935-1950 Part 7. Like any other specialty the available information is tremendous. This is an attempt to provide you with highlights only. I also recommend a few specialty books for more detailed information.

The majority of the reference information comes from Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Edition by Christie Romero and the 6th Edition Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry by Jeanenne Bell both of which I highly recommend. (See Vintage Jewelry Unleashed Vol.3 - March 2006)

Commonly Defined Reference Periods

1760 - 1830 Georgian
1840 - 1860 Early Victorian
1861 - 1879 Mid Victorian
1880 - 1902 Late Victorian
1890 - 1920 Edwardian & Art Nouveau
1920 - 1935 Art Deco
1940 - 1965 Post War & Retro Modern

1935-1950 Costume Jewelry -- An Overview

Historical Perspective: 1920 - 1935
Whoever thought costume jewelry, items made of metals, not necessarily precious and rhinestones could ever cost more than a gold bracelet with sapphires or diamonds? By 1924 costume jewelry was already widely accepted by all levels of society and social classes due in large part to Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel.

But between 1935-1950, costume jewelry reached a new level of recognition. More and more companies were producing costume jewelry; companies were advertising their collections, and Hollywood loved the glitter and sparkle. More and more people began to recognize the names of manufacturers due to their marketing and "collectors" were born. Costume jewelry reached another peak when "The Jewels of Fantasy" exhibition traveled the world between 1991-1993. You can pick up the catalogue or book on many auction websites.

There are a handful of well-known companies that produced jewelry prior to 1935. These include Ciner, Coro, Miriam Haskell, Hobe, Napier, KTF, known today as Trifari, Chanel, Hattie Carnegie and Elsa Schiaparelli. These manufactures often did not "sign" their jewelry. Many books and articles have been written though the years that attribute characteristics to specific designers and are well worth the investment. An unsigned necklace or bracelet designed by Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell can be quite the find, if you know how to identify his work. (See the Costume Jewelry Signed section on the website for examples of great signed pieces).

Well know collectors have also investigated design patents for the major companies. All of Carla Genelli Brunialti and Roberto Brunialti books carry the design patents so pieces can be attributed and then valued. Jim Katz has spent enormous time researching and now sharing his extensive patent website which is organized by designer. http://www.jewelrypatents.com/

While the war was on, many of the base materials were restricted to war time use only. The manufacturers were called upon to produce clothing and even arms for the military but they still produced their jewelry, although not in massive quantities. Two changes occurred as a result of the war. The first one was the style of jewelry was expanded upon. Patriotic themes, "sweetheart" jewelry, patriotic colors of red, white and blue were now produced in large amounts as patriotism was at an all time high. The second change was the type of materials used. Because base metals were not being used, sterling became a favorite. And since the supply of rhinestones from Czechoslovakia and Austria were cut off, companies had to rely on existing stock, and as a result, less rhinestone jewelry was produced. Likewise with faux pearls from Japan. Lucite, as we learned in June was developed and began being used in jewelry.

The Jewelry: 1935-1950 Jewelry Collectible Styles
Romero says, "...late '30's and early 40's Retro Modern costume pieces made of rhinestones and gold-plated or rhodium plated white metal or sterling were often larger in scale than their precious stones, gold and platinum equivalents, but many of the designs were quite similar." 2 1/2" - 5" brooches were being made and are quite desirable today.

Another similarity between costume and fine jewelry was the style. Dress clips were just as popular in costume jewelry as in fine estate jewelry. Colored glass was used to simulate semi-precious gems and white metal with rhodium simulated platinum and white gold. Gold-plated pieces were often bi or tri colored to resemble rose gold and green gold.

Other styles that are collectible and not necessarily signed, are those from France, marked Depose' which means registered. Sometime Germany also used this on their jewelry when they exported it to France or England. Poured glass items, bracelets, necklaces or pins are extremely collectible, whether they are signed or not. Sterling vermeil or rhodium-plated and painted enamel figural pins are also highly desirable, particularly those by Marcel Boucher with his early MB, "Phrygian Cap" mark from the French Revolution. The jelly belly signed by Coro or Trifari are still in great demand as are showy and unusual unsigned figurals.

Some of the more well known signed pieces were made by De Rosa, DuJay (signed and unsigned), Eisenberg Originals, Hobe', Mazer Bros, Pennino, Reja, Staret, Trifari, Coro, Corocraft, Joseff, Miriam Haskell, (signed and unsigned) and Rice-Weiner.

While some prefer to collect only signed pieces, there are wonderfully designed unsigned pieces. When choosing unsigned jewelry, look for the quality of materials, construction and over-all design. These are also wearable art and look can be just as desirable as a signed piece. (See the Costume Jewelry Unsigned section on the website for examples of great unsigned pieces).

The Jewelry: 1935-1950 -- Grand Women of Costume Jewelry
I would be remiss if Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel were not mentioned in this section. These two women probably did more for the growth and acceptance of costume of jewelry than any others. Many of their earlier pieces were not signed and are not frequently seen. Chanel closed her doors during the War and reopened in 1951. She continued to produce until she died. It was during this period when she produced her multi-colored glass, faux pearls, and gold plated items, collectors are familiar with today.

Elsa Schiaparelli avant-garde style is prevalent in her designs from 1930, which are typically unsigned. Her earliest signature from the late 1930's are signed "schiaparelli" in lower case block letters. She opened her New York City office in 1949 and licensed her name for the production of costume jewelry. Many of these earlier pieces can be seen in Ginger Moro's book, European Designer Jewelry... (See the March 2006 Newsletter to find a link to this book.)

Best wishes,
Shelley